Those unacquainted with this city’s ethos may find the
typical Hyderabadi obsession with Irani Chai (tea) amusing. Some may even
accuse them of being chai-addicts, which (justifiably, I may add) is met by strong
denial, nay defensive, “Others may as
well be called air-addicts or water-addicts then.”
For the younger generation the ideal venue of a
get-together begins with Cafe Coffee Day / McDonalds (when hard-pressed on
cash!) and might extend to any upper limit when feasible. But before affluenza
took over the Y2K generation, Irani Cafes were the most popular meeting venue for the cash-strapped teens. In a bid to appear more Western than the
West we have sadly abandoned efforts to modernize our traditional outlets and
instead sought to westernize them.
The joyous conversations and noisy ambiance has since
been replaced with uneasy silence punctuated with tight-lipped formal conversations.
But to my mind nothing beats the cluttered, crowded Irani Cafes that always are
vibrant, soulful and overflowing with humanity (that they suit my humble budget
is purely incidental! J ) It is a pity that the mushrooming food franchises
have rapidly replaced the better among the cafes, and many that remain
operational today are poorly maintained. Although many appear to be doing roaring
business the uncomfortably untidy atmosphere has been responsible for its customer-base
sliding from the middle-class to the lower segment.
And yet, these Hyderabadi cafes come with the complete
package: Osmania biscuits (a unique city-variety made exclusively to be munched
with tea), bada samosa, chota samosa and a plethora of other bakery items
including dil-pasand, dilkush among many others etc.
And Irani Chai is no ordinary tea, as its lovers would
philosophise ala cinematic style; it is the culmination of many, many failed
attempts for perfection and quintessence of man‟s victory over fatigue and
frustration. The Hyderabadi Hindi (Deccani dialect), far receding from the
metro heartland into Old City, is still found alive and bustling in these
remnants of the bygone era. Indeed, these places are a welcome change from the
stiff upper-lipped formality or nocturnal indulgences; they bring us closer to
joyous spirit of the unwashed masses.
Meditate on the chaos, coincidences and chasms of human
life over a cup of Irani Chai. It is one of the simpler pleasures of life where
you feel one with the sea of humanity.
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